Tenacious T and the African Adventure

The chronicles of my 6 month trip to Uganda, East Africa to work as a nurse in a rural sustainable community development project run by Africa Community Technical Service (ACTS)

Thursday, November 30, 2006

Rafting the NILE!!

For our end of November 5 days off we decided a little adventure trip down the source of the Nile River would be a good idea. I don't know whose idea it was...but we should blame that person!!! It was one of the scariest things ever, although I'll admit...it was fun. Up to class 5 rapids and our guide seemed intent on dumping us whenever he could! Luckily I had my good friends Paul and Nate from home (who happened to be travelling in Africa at the same time) there with me! And I couldn't chicken out and go in the safety boat with Paul as my rapid buddy, I told him at least if we die we'll die together!! Here's some pics...







The fearless team....with our crazy leader! I can't even see out from under the dumb helmut.











The Team fearlessly approaching a rapid, check me out, last on the starboard side before our guide "Big J" right behind paul.










Ducking down and holding on in one of the class 5 rapids. I think in fact it was called the "G spot" cause you had to hit it at exactly the right place...










...Which we didn't. Now in this picture notice you can see me (pink hat) launching into the air behind Paul (yellow hat). At this point I think I was pretty much abandoning ship, notice how Paul and John in front are faithfully holding on to their paddles and I was like "forget that" someone else can find it later!!








My hero's, the safety kyakers!! There's nothing like finally popping to the surface and those guys are waiting there to drag you back to the boat, and always with a smile on their face!! They were amazing! notice me on the right side of the picture with a death grip on the front of the Kayak while another girl hangs on to the back!!


All of us celebrating the fact that we're still alive with the Nile River hiding in the background and what else but a Nile Special brew in our hands!

Sunday, November 19, 2006

Goats, Grasshoppers, and Other Delicacies

I’ve learned two things about goats here in Rubingo. 1. Who knew goats were so cute when they’re babies? 2. Who knew roasted goat was soo good! Last Sunday Graeme and I were the only Muzungu in camp at Rubingo and we made the executive decision to not attend church. Now before you get judgemental you have to know our reasoning was that we can’t understand anything that is said anyways, and it gets kind of loooong when you aren’t listening to anything comprehensible for 4 hours!! Anyways we wanted to relax on our day off so we planned the ultimate day, starting with breakfast of pineapple and chai on the office deck, then eating roasted goat on a stick with our buddy Johnson down at DK’s the little family store in the next village. As rice and beans is the daily staple at camp goat meat is a delicacy. They chop up a goat everyday at DK’s and if you get there in time you can have some of the good parts. By this I mean not intestines wrapped on a stick, or the liver, or the tongue! But if you get the good pieces it’s delicious, roasted over charcoal, and only 500 shillings…about 32 cents each! Johnson decided we should handpick our pieces out of the bucket filled with pieces of a goat …(and one furry hoof hanging over the edge)…then come back later. We chose the best/meatiest pieces and covered them in my sweet Safeway garlic/onion spice…then we left to visit some widows and come back later.
At the widows house I found the sweetest little baby goats, just one day old and fuzzy!! They’re so adorable when they’re brand new you just want to squeeze ‘em!! Course the future is inevitable and back at DK’s we enjoyed some delicious roast goat on a stick in the “VIP” room at the back! :)
Now that it’s rainy season there is another delicacy around town…grasshoppers!! Everyone is catching them, selling them, eating them. Graeme came back to Rubingo with Johnson and a big bag of grasshoppers a few days later, much to the delight of all the Ugandan workers as well as the cooks who taught us to “prepare” them. We got a first hand lesson in de-legging and de-winging the insects, the rest is then thrown into a pot with a bit of water and fried. You wouldn’t believe how tricky it is to rip their legs off when they are moving and trying to chew at you with their little mandibles!!! They fry in their own fat, and taste a lot like crispy chicken wings, no too bad really. I just couldn’t get into it though, I don’t know if it was preparing them beforehand or knowing what they were that threw me off! Graeme, however, didn’t have the same problem of association and gobbled down handfuls!



Me and my buddy Johnson, one of the ACTS employees who works with the widows groups. Going to visit one of our Widows homes.


At the widows home we found these cute little goats, just one day old.

AWWW look at this cute little buddy!



The widows daughter

Johnson and I enjoying our roast goat in the "VIP" room at the back of DK's....hiding away from the Waragi (Ugandan moonshine) drinking mean in the front that harass us!

Our delicious bag of grasshoppers!!!

Edith, our head cook, preparing the grasshoppers ...after we had a lesson in how to rip off their legs and wings!

Saturday, November 04, 2006

Ntarama Memorial






Outside of the church memorial. They have built a large roof shelter to maintain the church.















Inside the church memorial where many were murdered. The skulls of the dead line shelves at the back of the church. You can see where the grenades were thrown through the church walls.
























Rwanda

Well hello, time for another entry in the chronicles of Tanessa in Africa! Hee hee that makes me sound like a super hero. If I WAS a super hero trust me I would have flown home from Rwanda instead of going on the Gasso bus from hell!! Haha well it wasn’t soo bad. But let me backtrack. This entry is about my trip to Kigali, Rwanda. We had 5 days off as we do at the end of every month, to allow our Ugandan co-workers to go home and see their families. Well all of us 11 interns decided to take a little trip to the capital city of Rwanda which isn’t very far away (check out a map I can’t explain). On the way down we hired our own personal van for all of us but on the way back decided to take the bus line as it was cheaper, and we had also heard that they were quite comfortable with large cushy seats, like a greyhound. So we DID get on the bus back home but failed to realize that buying a ticket on the bus is not synonymous with a seat on the bus. Apparently the other Ugandans sitting on the floor had known the bus was full when they bought their tickets but as we were expecting a seat and comfortable ride home we were slightly annoyed. Plus we never know what is going on so we weren’t sure what was supposed to happen. Luckily some kind people from Burundi let me squeeze into their seat for most of the 6 hr + ride home. The funniest thing was Graeme, he was feeling ill so downed Gravol before we got on the bus and expected to sleep all the way home. He was barely keeping himself upright while squeezed into the aisle with his bum on FIRE from sitting over the engine!! Anyways we all eventually got home…another lesson learned….clarify a “seat” on the bus in the future.
All in all the weekend in Rwanda was great. Kigali is a nice city, much cleaner and more organized than Kampala, the capital of Uganda. People tell us that is because there are fewer people living there but also because the police presence is strong and they appear to be quite strict. They have newly implemented reforms such as mandatory helmets on the motorcycle taxis and garbage cans in the streets!! Might not sound like a revolution but if you have ever walked down to street in Kampala, or most of the towns here in Uganda you would understand my excitement. Anyways there was also a lot of pavement on the roads which was strange to see and felt quite a lot like home!
Highlights of the trip: splurging and spending one night at the infamous Hotel des Milles Collines (think Hotel Rwanda…it all happened here!!). Nice pool, hot water, and flushable toilet!! Woohoo. Another highlight was our visit to two genocide memorials around Kigali, though it seems strange to call it a highlight. We visited the Kigali Memorial Center and the Ntarama Genocide memorial site outside of Kigali. It was a sobering, surreal and saddening…yet educational experience to learn more about the genocide that occurred in Rwanda in 1994.
The Kigali Memorial Center was opened in 2004 for the 10th anniversary commemoration of the genocide. It is now the burial place of over 256,000 people who were murdered in Kigali. They are buried in mass graves at the memorial, many with no names. The site has an educational center as well as displays. The centre has three permanent exhibitions that use video/pictures/and words. One of them documents the genocide of 1994, the second is a children’s memorial, and the third shows a history of genocide around the world. Almost all the information contained in the exhibit can be found on their website so take a look: www.kigalimemorialcentre.org
Ntarama is a church site about a 45 minute drive from the city centre. Even after the memorial centre visiting this site was an experience like I have never had before. Ntarama is a church. During the genocide people fled to churches for sanctuary in large numbers. In Ntarama 5,000 people were killed, hacked or shot to death after grenades were thrown into the church building. This memorial doesn’t have exhibits, it is its own exhibit. Virtually untouched, everything has remained on the site since the day it occurred. The bones of the vicitims remain, scattered throughout the church and surrounding buildings. One room contains all the clothes of the victims, another their personal belongings, remaining in time since the day their lives ended. Row upon row of human skulls line the sanctuary. Though I have seen someone die I have never been near the human remains of so many lives. Many of the skulls were crushed or broken, many small in size, painfully reminding of the innocent children. The smell of death still lingered in the large piles of bones, a variety of shapes and sizes. It is surreal to be in Kigali and realize that this is the place where what I had only heard of…actually occurred. To look around the city you see no signs of it’s history but when you start to realize that anyone you encounter, over the age of 12, probably has some kind of experience with the genocide, you begin to wonder what sort of long term consequences it has on so many people. I feel very privileged to be able to visit this city and see/learn what I did. It is definitely an experience I will never forget.

Until next time…











This is the Senior, our sweet "special hire" mini-van we paid to drive us to Rwanda. Check out the faux fur interior.

A view of one of the many hills that Kigali is spread out on.

Me outside the hotel

Bryony, me and Katie, chillin and relaxing round the pool at the Hotel Des Milles Collines.

Thursday, November 02, 2006

A goat shat on my step….and other highlights

You read that right, he didn’t sit….he shat!! Either that or barfed, we couldn’t quite tell but nonetheless it was disgusting!! The other night a bunch of goats got into our fenced off camp area and they were running around, trying to eat my mango tree, and generally being noisy! We all trudged out with our head lamps on to figure out it was goats and then Graeme alerted me to the “spot” on my porch step. They were in there all night I think, at one point they were bleating and knocking on my porch so I ran out in my underwear to scream at them. Crazy beasts, with their beady little eyes shining in the light of my headlamp!! They are everywhere around here. Even better than that is the long horned cows. Ugandan Long Horns I call them, herds of them wander down the roads all well controlled by some little 5 year old kid who isn’t scared a bit and whips them with a long stick!! They have 4 feet of horns, and could gore you better than your average bull!! I steer clear of them.
Anyways I wanted to write and give a little more detail about some of the experiences I have had, specifically in relation to the work I am going to be doing. I haven’t really begun to work in the Aid Station yet as I am getting a general overview of everything first. Basically the Rubingo Aid station is run by Evas, she is a trained nurses aid, and provides basic assessment and medication for common illnesses (think Malaria, infections). I will be working alongside her in the Aid station as one of my projects. (note Aid station does not mean HIV/AIDS station, confusing I know, but more to come on that). Eventually she will orientate me on how everything is run there at the station. Another project I will be working with is ACTS program for people living with HIV/AIDS….or “clients” as Perez calls them. Perez is a wonderful man who works at ACTS, he was a pastor, then a carpenter, and now a trained HIV/AIDS counselor! He is in charge of the HIV/AIDS program which is also linked with the Rubingo Aid Station in some ways. There are about 170 clients that have registered with us, we do monthly testing here in Rubingo through collaboration with the AIDS Information Center (AIC) in Mbarara who does the actually testing and some counseling. People who are positive can register with us as clients. We arrange and provide transport for all the clients to get to their monthly appointments at various HIV/AIDS clinics in the surrounding area. Mostly The AIDS Support Organization (TASO), AIC, and another clinic at the Mbarara University Hospital run by an American guy, Dr. Pepper (yes I know..haha). Clients also receive counseling as needed from Perez, monthly multi-vitamins, and..when there are funds…other needed items such as mosquito nets to prevent malaria etc. Any who qualify and can manage to get Anti Retro Viral (ARV) drug therapy do so through those other organizations whom we collaborate with. Very few of them seem to be on ARV’s, it is reserved for those who are already quite affected by the virus, as determined by their blood work.
Yesterday I went on home visits to see our clients with Perez and Evas. We went far out of our water project area as the testing (and therefore registration) is open to anyone in the sub-county. We left at 8:30 in the morning and returned around the same time at night…and visited only 10 clients homes. So you can see how time consuming it can be to visit these people directly in their homes. Usually you drive on some pot-hole infested dirt road and then get out and hike a little bit through the plantations to a house. Many of these clients were in very dire need. I don’t know if it was just because they are not in our water project area where much work has already been accomplished, or just because they are HIV positive, but these homes/clients were some of the worst I have seen so far. I visited one family where both parents are HIV positive, the kids hadn’t been tested yet. The father was on ARV’s but was suffering from extreme swelling in his feel and legs, as well as immobilization of his left hand. I couldn’t get a clear story on what was the cause, he was being followed at an AIDS clinic, but he had been this way for over a year and could only walk recently. The mother was out working on someone else’s land for money. They had 5 children, one of them named Lilian was very cute..she had tiny little legs and hands and feet. I assumed she was the youngest and guessed she was about 2-3 years old. When I asked someone I found out she was 6. The oldest of the children that were there and by far the smallest, I noticed she was tiny but had a big swollen belly under her little rag dress. I couldn’t believe it, she looked like a toddler. I have no idea but wonder how many of the children are HIV positive but don’t know yet. Some of the places and faces were very sad. There was one home with 3 children, the oldest maybe 11. Both of their parents had been our clients but had passed away and all they had left was this house, no plantation to farm. Their Aunt was staying with them but has a husband and 6 kids of her own. Their house was a classic Ugandan house made of bark, wood, and mudded. It had 2 small rooms. Out back I saw the cross marking one of their parents graves, buried in their backyard.
There is much to be done with the HIV/AIDS program, part of it is trying to work with local organizations to increase the numbers that can be tested, and getting children tested. In November I will have the chance to be here on our monthly testing day, and also get to visit with all of our clients, who come to the Aid station once a month for their multivitamins. There is a lot of other administrative stuff as well and lobbying for funding from different places, government and church. So far I don’t feel like I have done much but have definitely been inspired to advocate for the programs and find funding from anywhere that I can!! So much work is limited by the lack of resources. I have been impressed by the 24 HIV/AIDS clients that form a choir/Community Based Organization called the Hope CBO….they performed at a church service on this past Sunday and did songs and dramas teaching about HIV/AIDS. It was very impressive and lively, even if I didn’t understand a word. They work with what they have to get their message across and openly talk about how HIV/AIDS is spread, how to prevent it, what to do if you think you have it, the importance of testing and on and on…. Education is such an important part….a lot of the ideas are brand new to some people from the villages. For example, a story from Katie who attended a Family Planning Presentation by another one of our groups. She told us everyone was staring in wonder as a condom was passed around, I don’t think they had seen one before. One 70+ man even wanted to be taught how to use one! They were trying to open the package very carefully, peeling the 2 sides apart and Katie said she just grabbed it and ripped it open on the perforated edges like you’re supposed to, they freaked out thinking she was gonna tear it! Anyways it is quite humorous to us where most people have heard it all before but really….anyone who has 13 kids can’t have heard anything about Family Planning their whole life! It could make a huge difference in the lives of these people who haven’t really had any choice up till now!!





This is Lilians family, her parents are both HIV clients of ours. Her father suffers from complications that cause him to have difficulty walking and working is next to impossible.

Me and Lilian, the little girl who is supposedly 6 years old. She is so tiny!

These three children are the orphans of our HIV clients. Both their parents have now died of AIDS. They are standing behind the small mud house that is their only possesion.

The gravesite of their parents, in the back of the childrens' home.